Hi all,
So I ran into Jenner today and we were reflecting back on the course and how it was such a great learning experience. We were also wondering how everyone was doing with their stories and whether anyone was still reading the blog. Anyways, I’ve decided to pitch my query to The Walrus and see what happens. Here it is. Comments are welcome!
I’m in a stuffy warehouse in Moncton on a sunny day in May. My shoes are soaked with beer washing onto the concrete floor, and my ears ring with the clink of glass and hiss of machinery as men shout to be heard over the noise. Every so often, there’s the shatter of glass as a bottle breaks in machine behind me with a crooked “Save the Ales” sticker slapped onto it. At one end of the warehouse, bottles are being capped, labeled and boxed, then loaded into a truck that’s headed for Alberta tomorrow. At the other end, a man wearing a forest green shirt and baseball cap, with multiple ear piercings, a studded leather belt and lime green glasses climbs up steep metal stairs. Lifting the lid of a large stainless steel vat labeled “Mash Tun,” he peers inside its steaming depths, then runs back down and lopes over the tangle of red hoses on the floor to a counter screwed into the wall where he make notes in a binder. Turning around, he gives the finger to a man loading empty bottles onto a conveyer belt, then chuckles. This is Greg Nash, head brewer for Pump House brewery, winner of the 2007 Canadian Beer of the Year award and the bad boy of Canadian brewing.
“They’re bottling fucking Cadian and fucking assberry, err I mean blueberry today. None of those are really worth drinking,” jokes Nash, who is well known for his tendency toward extreme beers. Today he’s brewing Pump House’s Special Old Bitter, which has just started to be sold in six packs across the country. “I wish I could make it as hoppy as I wanted to,” he says, waving his arms in frustration. My fiancé, a home brewer and one of Nash’s biggest fans, has also joined us and is thrilled that Greg has offered to send him a recipe for “the craziest fucking hop bomb.” A former home brewer turned pro, Nash is well known among beer geeks in the Maritimes, with whom he freely exchanges his knowledge and experience. “We’re helping change the fucking face of brewing in Canada. More people making great beer means more people will be turned on to craft beer,” is his answer to critics who say he shouldn’t be sharing trade secrets. “Brewers making bad beer hurt my business,”
Nash’s brewing career started at the age of 15, with bottles exploding under his bed in his parents’ home outside Amherst, Nova Scotia. Although not much would have been available to an under-age drinker, there was also very little available to home brewers other than tinned kits sold in the local grocery stores. The results were mostly sugary beers that tasted like cider and weren’t very drinkable, although they did offer a temporary solution to Nash’s supply problem.
A self-confessed rebellious teenager, always in trouble with the law, Nash dropped out of high school and spent most of the next 15 years working as a car painter and on his parents’ blueberry and Christmas tree farm, all the while continuing to experiment with home brewing. Still not satisfied with the beer he was turning out from the tins, he ordered a copy of Charlie Papazian’s Complete Joy of Home Brewing and later started a local home brew club. Over the course of 600 batches, many of them botched and with the occasional exploding bottle, he discovered he wanted to turn brewing into more than a hobby. He returned to night school at the age of 31 to complete his high school diploma and qualify for admission to American Brewers Guild in Davis, California, then worked for two years at a small microbrewery and brew pub in Green Bay, Wisconsin.
When he returned to Canada in 1998 to brew for the River City Brewing Company in Winnipeg, Nash says he was slapped in the face by how different the beer scene was. Like so many other things, Canada’s craft brew scene is the smaller, gentler version of its American counterpart, where extreme brewing is now the norm. Up until a decade ago, most Canadian beer aficionados had to look south of the border if they wanted anything similar to a West Coast Style IPA. Whereas there are currently more than 1,400 craft breweries in the U.S. producing more than 1,600 India Pale Ales, at last count there were only about 150 small breweries across Canada that account for approximately five percent of the beer market. This makes for a highly competitive market where brewers are reluctant to exchange trade secrets. But much like the increased popularity of the local food scene, craft brewing in Canada is on an increasingly rapid boil, with a growing clientele of drinkers who would rather buy from the little guy down the street rather than commercial breweries.
Greg Nash is now a household name among craft brewers across the country, and he is credited with bringing hoppy West Coast beers to the Maritimes, where light beers like Ten-Penny Ale and Moosehead used to be standard fare. In the last decade, he has worked in three of the region’s main craft breweries – Propeller, Garrison and now Pump House – and has developed a following of beer geeks loyal to his brew.
Nash approaches brewing like any good chef approaches a recipe, and calls beer “the new wine.” He is on an infinite quest to create the perfect double IPA/aka “hop bomb” (his iPhone name is “iHopBombPhone”), and he has come close a few times. He continues to push the envelope wherever he brews, which can occasionally create conflict with owners who want to keep their beers more marketable and would rather produce tamer beers. Yet Nash is still optimistic that there is currently a revolution happening in the Canadian craft brew scene.
I’ll admit it: I’m more of a wine girl than a beer drinker, but for the last two months I’ve been immersed in the strangely compelling world of Canada’s microbrew scene. I’d like to propose a 4,000-word profile of Greg Nash in The Walrus, both because he is a colourful and interesting character and because his story offers a window into Canada’s burgeoning craft brewing scene. We’re still five to 10 years behind the scene in the States, which is why it makes it even more interesting. There are a number of extenuating circumstances restricting the growth of craft brewing that I’d like to explore, including Canada’s liquor laws and the management of its liquor stores. I plan to follow Nash’s success at the 2009 Canadian Brewing Awards in September, where he intends to enter three beers.
I’ve spent several hours interviewing Greg Nash, along with local beer geeks, former colleagues, his mother, certified beer judges, the editor of Taps magazine and organizers of the Canadian Brewing Awards. I am also familiar with the local craft brewing scene in Halifax, now that my laundry room has been overtaken by bubbling carboys and the citrusy aromas of hoppy IPAs brewed by my fiancé. I recently took an advanced narrative nonfiction course with Stephen Kimber of King’s College’s Journalism program, and have also completed Ryerson’s Certificate in Magazine Publishing, where I studied with David Hayes. During my “day job,” I work as the editor of the Nature Conservancy of Canada.
My writing has been published in ON Nature magazine, The Coast and The Toronto Colourguide, among other publications. I include some clippings of my formerly published work for your perusal, and would be happy to discuss this idea further with you and how I feel it fits with The Walrus’s audience.
Thank you in advance for your attention to my query. I look forward to hearing from you.
Sincerely,
Christine Beevis
cbeevis@eastlink.ca
h: 902-406-2110 w:902-480-3238
PS – I should add that I also have a connection to a good portrait photographer in Halifax who would be willing to photograph Nash in action, should you be interested. Samples of his work can be found here: http://www.andrewmurphy.ca/